Chris O’Rourke was a shy, young Irish boy from New Jersey who had an affinity for playing in the water. When his family was unexpectedly forced to flee their East Coast home and lavish lifestyle,they journeyed as far west as possible. Upon reaching the shores of the Pacific Ocean, his life was forever changed. His love of the water intensified as he became irreversibly submerged into an entirely new sport – surfing.
A competitive surfing prodigy, Chris had only one goal – to become a world champion. Chris performed incredible maneuvers in the sea that defied the laws of gravity and inertia. He was convinced by others to humble his arrogance and speak with his skills – a potent combination that attracted many followers. In 1975, at the tender age of 16, he became the highest ranking competitive surfer in the mainland United States.
Around the world, professional surfing began to gather momentum. A bold few made their move to take part. Chris found himself perched on the threshold of his dreams, poised to make history in the sport he loved, only to come face to face with his deadliest opponent ever. His life was about battling fate, while at the same time trying to find redemption. Wanting nothing more than to compete again in order to defeat his past, his story is not about duration, but about brilliance.
Author: Kirk Lee Aeder